All the needed information and knowledge is an internet click away.Look I do know what do you mean about people being frivolous with money but I’m not that person. If you're really worried about cost, buy three bikes and flip for profit the two you don't want so you can afford the third. It's bizarre people don't mind dropping $80 at the grocery each week or $50 at the bar on Thursday eve, but don't want to shell $200 for a decent vintage bike that will still be going strong for decades. If if you get to 10 posts be sure to post a photo of the one you are considering.
#Murray bike price how to#
Modern bike shops should know how to service a coaster brake but they may not if their service people only work on modern bikes. If this is the bike you are looking at I’d say just test the brake as outlined above.
This brake is contained in the hub so if your rims are wet it will still stop you the same.
The brake on that one you back pedal and use your body weight to push down to bring it to a stop. A 60’s coaster brake bike could be useful for fun riding. If it it is a coaster brake bike - these are a bit more timeless. I mean you could replace the pads with better ones and a good bike shop could adjust them to work as good as possible but now your bargain is no longer a bargain.
#Murray bike price upgrade#
Being that it is a low cost Murray, you can’t really upgrade to better brakes very easily. The reason is that these bikes have chrome plated steel rims with thin stamped steel brakes that chatter and squeal and don’t stop well in the dry let alone the wet. If if has the caliper brakes my advice would be to avoid it if you ride any kind of hills or ride in traffic or in the rain. Just curious which one one you are considering and what type of riding you plan to do with this. I still haven’t made my 10 posts so I can’t post the photos.Googling Murray Monterrey I see where they came in either a “beach bike” coaster brake one speed configuration or a 3-speed with caliper brakes. Are the any major points that I would need to check. What do you look for when deciding to buy the cheaper used bike in the 20 to 40 range. Occasionally I fix them up, but I do all the work myself so it keeps the total spending down.Very good advice. Typically I buy them for parts, one or two parts alone can make them a good deal. Now I do buy bikes in the $20 to $40 price range. I don’t want to spend a bunch of money on a bike and I just want something to ride leisurely I plan on checking it out Friday to get a better look at it. The one I’m more intrigued buy is the I’m assuming late 60s Monterey looks pretty solid and just needs a cleaning and maybe chain grease and some tubes. Occasionally I fix them up, but I do all the work myself so it keeps the total spending down.I do understand what you mean I have a mountain bike I personally thought I would only need to get tires for I got quoted $175 just to get riding.
Occasionally I fix them up, but I do all the work myself so it keeps the total spending down. $20 to $40 does not buy a good ready to ride bike, at least my definition of ready to ride. Murray bikes were one of the basic department bikes of the past, the equivalent to what Walmart sells now, they were never built to last, and were cheaply built. Typically someone brings an old bike in to be repaired, gets sticker shock on the price to get it repaired, so they leave it as a donation. I pick up donated bikes for our co-op from local bike shops all the time. Sometimes you will spend less overall if you buy a bike for $150 versus $25. The keys to avoiding this is doing the work yourself and picking well. Its easy to drop $200 or more into having an older used bike repaired. Shops around here charge $75/hr for maintenance. Unless you have the time/tools/aptitude/workspace to do the work yourself, most will turn out to be money pits. People do not maintain bikes, they ride them until they break. When you buy bikes in the $20 to $40 range, they tend to need a lot of work, particularly basic maintenance.